(Backstage @ DKNY’S SS16 NYFW show with Eugene Souleiman, Global Creative Director Care and Styling, Wella Professionals)
SS16 marks a new, more sophisticated direction for DKNY, bringing the brand closer to the Donna Karan mainline. The hard-edged architecture of New York’s One World Trade Centre was the perfect backdrop for the slightly masculine tailoring of the collection, and this in turn provided the inspiration for the strong, graphic simplicity of the hair look.
“I love the simplicity of this look. The blend of the deep masculine side-parting at the front and softer, feminine texture through the lengths feels very modern, but it has a classically handsome beauty at the same time. It’s the kind of look I imagine Lauren Bacall would wear if she was a young woman today – graphic, powerful and polished.”
The Key Technique: The seamless blend between rigid control at the front and soft flowing texture at the back was the key feature of this look. Working on clean, dry hair, Eugene took the unusual approach of using Wella Professionals Stay Firm hairspray as the styling, rather than finishing, product.
“A minimal style like this it has to be executed perfectly. I wanted the front of the hair to be super-sleek and controlled with a razor sharp parting, so I used hairspray as the styler to create that strong hold and rigid texture.”
“After prepping the hair with Wella Professionals Perfect Setting, I sectioned it off and sprayed loads ofWella Professionals Stay Firm at the roots, pulling away as I moved down the lengths. Then I brushed it through to fade the concentration of product rather than having a defined contrast between the two textures.”
To complete the look, Eugene used his hands to create softness, texture and movement through the lengths.