TREND: AKIN KONIZI ON NAILING LONG TO SHORT

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Regardless of whether it’s a pixie cut, a blunt bob or even one of the myriad of TikTok-inspired shoulder grazing cuts currently taking over newsfeeds, there can be no denying that cropped locks have never been more in style.

Whilst it may seem like a quick rise in popularity for the untrained eye, king of the crop Akin Konzini points to the catwalks of 2022 as the source for a more mainstream client desire to lob off length in favour of something short and sweet. “I may be optimistic, but it seems the popularity of short hair has been bubbling away for the past year, especially on the catwalks and we are now beginning to see an emergence of clients asking for something different,” explains the HOB Academy international creative director. “Long hair has dominated the high street for the past few years, but now a growing number of clients are wanting something that is shorter, versatile, and more personal to their own tribe. For the past two years during lockdowns and working from home, it’s been easy to pull long hair into a top knot. But now the world is back open, it’s time for hair to take on a new chapter of luxurious, beautifully executed haircuts – and clients are getting ready for it, they just need a push!” 

But short doesn’t have to mean cropped; replacing long layers with something more structured round the shoulder is the perfect introduction to something new and exciting. “Adding some face-framing colour and a shoulder-length bob can lift the face, is modern and easy to wear and the perfect introduction to shorter hair.”

Looking for a little guidance on taking your client on the oft-overwhelming journey from long to short? Here, Konzini provides his top tips for nailing the transition in salon.

1 Firstly, don’t panic. If you’ve only been cutting an inch off hair for the past two years, shorter hair means extending that to two inches, or three inches. Hair is a canvas and you are in control of what you create. 
2 Do your research and see what is on the catwalk and the red carpet. There are some beautiful jaw length styles around at the moment. 

3 Shorter hair doesn’t have to mean scary. You have all the skills, you just haven’t used them for a while. Practise makes perfect so enroll on a cutting course, practise on family and friends and build up your confidence.

4 When you have someone with long hair, take them to a bob, and then at the next appointment layer that bob, then their next appointment cut in a fringe. At that point, you have completely changed them from long hair and on your way to any hairstyle that you want to go from there.
5 Shorter hair doesn’t always mean precision cuts. A blunt bob can look dramatic, but so can graduated layers and a point-cut pixie. 
Keep an eye on emerging trends – what celebrities have today, your clients will want tomorrow. The bob is already making a comeback, so be ready to offer your clients what they want. If you don’t, someone else will. 

7 Don’t go from long to short in one go, it’s too dangerous for you and dramatic for the client! Get to know the hair before you take the risk of cutting it all off. 

8 Do it responsibly as ultimately, you will be to blame if they don’t like it.

9 Your aim is for the client to love it, not just like it! There nothing more rewarding for you than to reinvent the client’s character into someone who feels beautiful and re-energised and new.

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