Eugene Souleiman has done it again, this time at NYFW for DKNY and Jeremy Scott. The Global Creative Director for Wella Professionals said of Jeremy Scott’s collection:
“Jeremy’s collection was based on dolls so I wanted to follow that theme through in the hair, with a very faux, strong, bright, colourful fun look. We used wigs to create the shattered cuts and painted on colour to complete the playful, imprecise and deconstructed feel. The look is reminiscent of Beatrice Dalle in the film Betty Blue when she goes berserk and cuts off her hair, it shouldn’t be perfect. I worked with Jeremy to select the shades; the intention was to create colour clashes with the fabrics.”
Get the Look
- Section the hair into circular thirds, tying the centre third (at the crown) into a tight ponytail and clip to one side.
- Prepare the hair for the wig by wrapping the middle section tightly around the head, using Wella Professionals Stay Styled hairspray to keep it in place. Repeat with the top section so the hair forms a ‘skull cap’, reducing the bulk of the hair.
- Take the bottom third and spray liberally with hairspray. Pull it tightly over the rest of the hair into a high ponytail and fold the ends so that it lies flat to the head and fix into place.
- Place the wig slightly further back on the head, keeping the forehead exposed. Secure either side, just above eye level, with grips.
- The majority of the cutting was done before the wig was put on, but finish the fringe once the wig is in place.
- Using thinning shears, cut into the fringe in a chopped up way, the razored texture will create a shattered look. Cut with conviction, this is not for faint hearted!
- The bottom layers should be seriously short, but leave some longer top sections to pull down over the undercutting.
- Use Wella Professionals Ocean Spritz to add some texture and then apply the colour. I used acrylic paint with a polymer to give it shine, but you could use any colour to achieve a similar effect.
- Paint on liberally, you should be able to see the brush strokes in the hair. This part is very easy to do, it shouldn’t be pretentious or considered.
- Finally blow dry with a diffuser to set the paint and finish the style, using Wella Professionals Stay Styled hairspray to add texture and hold the longer layers away from the head to reveal the undercutting beneath.
The DKNY A/W 2015 collection features minimal tailoring with graphic shapes and flashes of bold color. Eugene was inspired by the collection and created a hair look in a minimalistic style, but added interest through the juxtaposition of a hard, simple silhouette, softened with elements of something delicate. The obvious contradictions at first glance are the mix of tension and texture. Hair is tight to the head at the front, then left loose at the back, with a hidden braid detail to create lift and movement as the girl walks.
“I wanted to add a new dimension to minimalism, shift the look more towards maximalism – but in a subtle way,” said Eugene. “In doing so, the simple has become slightly more complex, I’ve added some subtle nuances to make the hair look alive. The look is delicate but hard, giving the girls a distinct presence so that they can own the catwalk. It’s these contradictions that attract attention and add intrigue to the look.”
Get the Look
- Take an inch section from behind the ear and follow the shape of the hair line.
- Starting behind each ear, braid the section on the inside and secure at the nape of the neck. The aim is to create tension and to provide a solid base section that the top can be pulled down and tied to.
- Create a centre part (leaving out a thin section for the next step) and saturate the top section with Wella Professionals Create Character at the roots. It’s great for flexible hold with beautiful shine. Spray Wella Professionals Stay Essential, a strong and versatile crafting spray for creating touchable styles and brush through to achieve a tight-to-the-head, wet look.
- The thin section at the centre part will be used to add texture on top. Starting with ‘freshly washed hair’, apply Wella Professionals Natural Volume to the roots. Then use fingers to massage the hair into place, aiming for loose stands to create a fine and intricate pattern across the surface of the hair.
- It should look almost as if hair has been squashed to the head while wearing a beany hat, then when the hat has been removed, a few loose strands have broken free.To set these strands in place, spray the top of the hair with hairspray then cover the head with a mesh scarf, pulling down to create tension and ensure the hair sits flat to the head.
- Apply more hairspray through the mesh and then gently dry with a hair dryer, using a diffuser to prevent disturbing the surface of the hair. Once dry, remove the scarf and you’re runway ready.