Following New York’s colourful assault of the hair and fashion spheres… it was time for the European (and British) contingents to showcase their magic. And showcase they did. From lashings of glitter to soaring, structural arrangements, this season well and truly brought the drama. Here we recap the wildest trends to emerge from this season’s London, Milan and Paris runways. Buckle up.
PSA: Glitter is back… and with a (sparkling) vengeance.
Just ask makeup artists Dominic Skinner, Pat McGrath (bow down…), Erin Parsons and Fara Homidi who created these bedazzled looks for this season’s House of Holland (image 1), Valentino (image 2), Schiaparelli (image 3) and Off White runways.
From Erin’s show-stopping Studio 54 renderings (hello Schiaparelli) through to Off White’s subtle (image 4), meteor shower eyes a la Fara, this season, the glitter (evidently) would not settle… and for that we’re all thankful.
FLOWERS + FEATHERS
At this season’s Giambattista Valli show, visionary duo Anthony Turner and Isamaya Ffrench proved the eternal staying power of nature’s handsomest wonder: the flower, adorning models’ heads and faces with an arrangement of whimsical floral pieces.
Likewise, both hair maestro Sam McKnight and makeup artist Thomas De Kluyver drew impetus from yet another of nature’s most delicate motifs, the feather; Sam embellishing models’ hair looks at Dries Van Noten and Thomas opting to paint foreheads with feather designs.
BROWS + LASHES
There’s no doubt brows and lashes are having a moment (are the ever not?), and at this season’s Olivier Theysens, Mugler, Ermanno Scervino and Ralph & Russo shows, everyone’s favourite features saw their wildest iterations yet.
Wide eyed and wonderful, Isamaya Ffrench worked with Eugene Souleiman to create this whimsical look for Olivier Theysens (image 1). Bringing the drama to Mugler, Inge Grognard kept brows bushy with a twist, namely a sharply drawn pencil line (image 2).
Once again proving her penchant for glitter, Erin Parsons created these glitter dusted brows for Ermanno Scervino (image 3), while makeup royal Val Garland made a case for Twiggy-esque mod eyes with this striking liner look (image 4).
WET AND WAXY
Ever the Fashion Month staple, the wet look returned for SS20, cooly and masterfully articulated by hair experts Syd Hayes, Guido Palau, Duffy and Sara Mathiasson at the Ermanno Scervino, Versace, Haider Ackermann and Ottolinger shows respectively.
With a modern take on finger waves, Syd Hayes sent hearts racing with this look for Ermanno Scervino (image 1). Likewise the inimitable Guido Palau styled models (Kaia included!) with this edgy look, perfectly offset by bright hot pink shadow care of Pat McGrath.
Smooth, sleek and chic, Duffy’s hair look for Haider Ackermann (image 3) was adapted for both male and female models while Sara Mathiasson crafted this intricate, uber-gelled look (and a string of others) for Ottolinger.
This season’s most unanticipated trend? Painted hair.
From Julien dY’s contrasting creations at Marni and Moschino respectively (images 1 and 2) to Johanna Brown’s blue marbling at Fyodor Golan (image 3), each look was a stroke of pure painterly genius.
While Holli Smith’s look for Echaus Latta wasn’t technically a European runway find (having appeared a month prior at New York Fashion Week), it would be remiss of us not to include her rich, chalky take on the trend.
Talk about painting the town. Or runway if you’re keeping score.
As if Guido’s cone-do for Tomo Koizumi wasn’t enough…
This season our hair heroes raised the sky-high style stakes with a string of gravity defying, structural creations… from Johanna Brown’s brightly hued punk ‘do at Fyodor Golan (image 1) to Julien dY’s weirdly beautiful formations at Marni (image 2).
Likewise, stylist Olivier Schawalder created this unique, optical-illusion inspired detail on models for this season’s Mashama (image 3) show while Anthony Turner channelled Princess Leia with this winding, roped wonder for Christian Wijnants (image 4).
VINTAGE + VICTORIAN
A throwback to yesteryear.
For this season’s Vivienne Westwood show, Sam McKnight created these side-positioned victory rolls, finishing the look with bow-adorned, low ponytails (image 1).
In his own show of Victorian nostalgia, Eugene Souleiman created this countess-inspired ‘do (image 2) for models at Thom Browne, completing the look with tri-colour ribbons and sheer veils.
Similarly at Fyodor Golan, Johanna Brown channeled Marie Antoinette with these towering creations (image 3) while Sam McKnight took it back to the 80’s with crimped sections at Halpern Studio (image 4).
CREEPY + CYBORG
We saved the wildest (and weirdest) for last.
For this season’s Junya Watanabe offering, Eugene Souleiman teamed up with Isamaya Ffrench on the pair’s freakiest look yet. Brows were tightly taped to elongate and exaggerate features, with hair chopped and gelled a la Edward Scissor Hands (image 1).
Taking the creep factor one step further, Erin Parsons channeled manga-cartoon heroines at GCDS (image 2), achieving this dilated pupil look with carefully placed contact lenses.
In keeping with the theme of exaggeration, models’ features were augmented at Balenciaga, with the help of carefully placed cheek prosthetics (image 3).
Does it get creepier than hair than blood drenched hair? We think not. For Comme des Garçons, Julien dY’s did just that (albeit fake blood), completing the look with bulbous, brain-like buns (image 4).