Showman. Fashion Architect. Creative Genius. One of the most prolific designers to have emerged out of this century, Lee Alexander McQueen will forever be remembered for his unbridled artistic vision, penchant for theatrics and a portfolio of exquisite, zeitgeist-shifting creations… many of which defied traditional laws of fashion, logic… and gravity alike. On what would have been the couturier’s 50th birthday (week), we look back at some of his most iconic fashion moments.
Fall Winter 2006
Rounding up a global icon’s biggest fashion moments is (in itself) no easy feat… so let’s begin with yet another larger than life entity: Ms. Kate Moss.
McQueen’s ‘Widows of Culloden’ show concluded with a life-sized, whimsically-lit hologram bearing the the supermodel’s statuesque form, draped in yards of rippling fabric. The haunting scene drew cues from nineteenth century stage mechanics and was set to a melancholic soundtrack by John Williams.
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Spring Summer 1999
Yet another of the designer’s muses: Shalom Harlow graced the designer’s SS’ 99 runway in a strapless, white dress with a structured, tulle underlay – before which the model was slowly rotated on a circular, wooden turntable… and spray painted by two robotic guns. Genius.
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Spring Summer 2005
McQueen curated his SS ’05 collection showcase, ‘It’s Only a Game’, around the concept of a cross cultural chess match, combining an assemblage of both American and Japanese details respectively. Each of the show’s 36 garments thus corresponded to a particular game piece. Checkmate.
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Spring Summer 2005
Another gem (ha) from ‘It’s Only a Game’: the iconic Gemma Ward – in all her whimsical, alienesque glory – sporting this elaborate, wooden headpiece collab between McQueen and haute couture milliner Philip Treacy. EVERYTHING.
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Fall Winner 1999
On the subject of robots… the designer’s Fall Winter ’99 Givenchy offering heroed an array of robo-chic creations, including this programmed ‘Tron’ piece that featured flashing LED lights mounted across a fitted, transparent body suit. Fashion meets sci-fi.
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Fall Winter 1998
Inspired by such thrillers as Kubrik’s ‘The Shining’ and Christian renderings of Joan of Arc (who was famously burnt at the stake), McQueen’s FW ’98 sojourn saw a lone, masked model saunter down the runway… before being completely encircled by a ring of flames. A fiery finale indeed.
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Spring Summer 2001
One the designer’s most out-of-the-box offerings (excuse the pun), VOSS, saw the inaction of a unique, fashion tableau. Inside a cavernous room sat a mammoth sized glass box, artfully enlaced with mirrored walls. Models (including Ms. Moss) traipsed the enclosure, before which each of the glass walls shattered in succession.
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Spring Summer 2010
McQueen’s final runway presentation, namely ‘Plato’s Atlantis’, is widely regarded as the designer’s most memorable offering. And for good reason. In keeping with the show’s titular reference, McQueen envisioned a space-spanning land submerged in water – namely, the lost city of Atlantis – transforming models into ethereal, amphibian humanoids.
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